愛爾蘭旅行.遊記

葉慈的愛爾蘭斯萊戈郡: Lough Gill湖、Slishwood公園以及Innisfree小島

來呀,人類之子/來到湖濱曠野來/跟著精靈手拉手/那人世間太悲傷,你還不明瞭。這首詩中的湖畔森林,是現在Sligo斯萊戈郡的生態保護區。

葉慈成長過程中多年居住斯萊戈(Sligo),想體驗葉慈筆下的愛爾蘭,一定要到愛爾蘭西部一遊,而對我最具吸引力的,當然就是找出《The Stolen Child》這首詩裡的「Sleuth Wood by the lake」所指何處。這地方在地圖上不好找,但原來是位於一座大湖湖岸的公園Slishwood。在這裡,葉慈想像精靈把把人類的孩子掉包了⋯⋯

The Stolen Child:Lough Gill湖、Slishwood 公園

Come away, O human child
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand
For the world’s more full of weeping
than you can understand.

Sligo的 Slishwood 步道一景

而詩的起頭是這樣的:

Where dips the rocky highland
of Sleuth Wood in the lake
There lies a leafy island
Where flapping herons wake
The drowsy water-rats

在現今的地圖上,所謂的 lake 是 Lough Gill,而 Sleuth Wood 是 Slish Wood,在葉慈長大的Sligo郡郊區,距離市區不遠但仍要開車才能到。這是個林蔭密佈、步道平緩的生物多樣性保留區,屬於 Lough Gill 自然保留區的一部分。Lough Gill 是個長條狀的胡,長約八公里,沿岸有各種步道可走。

關於Slighwood的旅遊資訊,可以在 https://www.coillte.ie/site/slish-wood 找到。

 

Lough Gill、Slishwood以及Innisfree相對位置

 

而詩的開頭「Where dips the rocky highland」,指的就是 Benbulben。一旦到了湖邊,放眼向北就能看到 Benbulben。作為另一個葉慈筆下的地標,Benbulben 是經歷冰河時期刻畫成形的石灰岩及泥岩地,也是所謂的 Yeats Country 所指的區域,在另一首詩中,他描述Benbulben山腳沈睡著他的祖先:

Under Ben Bulben

Under bare Ben Bulben’s head
In Drumcliff churchyard Yeats is laid.
An ancestor was rector there
Long years ago, a church stands near,
By the road an ancient cross.
No marble, no conventional phrase;
On limestone quarried near the spot
By his command these words are cut:
Cast a cold eye
On life, on death.
Horseman, pass by!

Benbulben遠觀就很有特色,但如果要實際去參觀Benbulben走步道,或是拜訪鄰近的Glencar瀑布,那是跟Slishwood完全相反的方向,要另外規劃。

第三首提及Lough Gill以及Slishwood 景色的詩,則是廣為廣為國人喜愛的《The Lake Isle of Innisfree》,全詩如下:

The Lake Isle of Innisfree:湖岸或是觀光小船眺望Innisfree小島

The Lake Isle of Innisfree

I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,
And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made:
Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honey-bee;
And live alone in the bee-loud glade.

And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,
Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;
There midnight’s all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow,
And evening full of the linnet’s wings.

I will arise and go now, for always night and day
I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;
While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey,
I hear it in the deep heart’s core.

「Isle of Innisfree」是名為Innisfree之島,面積很小也無人居住,除了葉慈的詩之淵源以外不是什麼景點,遊客能做的就是到Lough Gill 湖邊,然後沿著湖岸步道眺望小島,或是到標有Isle of Innisfree Jetty的小碼頭眺望,或是搭上Rose of Innisfree的湖上觀光小船。若開車前往,公路標往Innisfree的路標就會帶你到湖邊的最鄰近處,那裡有停車場。若是參加Rose of Innisfree的導覽,似乎可以安排斯萊戈市區接送。

也因如此,詳細的行程安排細節並不好找。其實最有用的資訊,在Google Map中的評論及照片,有馬路路標、停車場及碼頭的照片。

Innisfree Google Map資訊

葉慈寫這首詩,是住在倫敦的時候,偶然經過某個店面聽到水聲,突然想起小時候夏天會去這湖邊玩,記起自己嚮往梭羅逐自然而居,而以這座小島為象徵,寫出這首獨創個人音律的詩。

坐在湖邊,聽水聲,也正是葉慈眼中的愛爾蘭自然之美。

Lough Gill、Slishwood或是眺望Innisfree處,都需要自行前往,沒有直達的大眾運輸。這些點很「local」,不是隨時都充滿需要運載的觀光客。我沒有開車,從市區坐計程車要花點錢。Slishwood收訊還不太好,記得回程是在抵達下車時先跟計程車司機約好碰面時間的,要離開還要費點功夫。

http://www.online-literature.com/yeats/celtic-twilight/27/

1 comment on “葉慈的愛爾蘭斯萊戈郡: Lough Gill湖、Slishwood公園以及Innisfree小島

  1. The Lake Isle of Innisfree 是高中時英文課本裡面的教的詩,雖然後來大學修課也有讀葉慈的其他詩作,但到現在印象深刻的仍是高中時讀的這一首。

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